My fascination with megaliths monuments is old news. My radar for them is legendary. I will forever be drawn to and will always seek out an ancient place, that is just how I am made, that is the wanderer in me. I am not an archaeologist though; in fact I think I'm agnostic about archaeologists! So dear reader, any ancient places that I share with you will be peppered with my musings and seasoned with some science.
In defence of archaeologists, they work darn hard in their excavations, and apply a heck of a lot of science to their discoveries, and of course I believe deep in the core of every archaeologist is a treasure hunter, and part of me can so relate to that. There be times when I wish they wouldn't excavate, but rather develop scientific techniques that inform their study and leave these sites intact. Some have, it has to be said, with things like LIDAR scanning and Geo Phys for example. Ultimately though, the Druid in me abhors their destruction, their desecration, the excavations, I need to honour these places and leave them alone.
The south coast of Brittany is like mana from heaven for a stone mad druid scribe. Everybody knows of Carnac (and I will blog about that) but this coast is literally littered with megalithic monuments. I have often said that I do not understand the logic of the ancient Bretons, why they constructed the monuments they did, why they placed them where they placed them, and I have no comprehension of their rock art nor their types of monuments, nor how they are oriented, but, I am slowly developing an understanding. I do have a great insight into Irish monuments and I have to be careful not to be applying those preconceived ideas here because I have come to know that we must be very careful of the lens we use in which to view history.
Here is what I have discerned thus far. The south of Brittany contains some of the most enigmatic stone alignments and stone complexes anywhere in the world. In fact, all of Brittany does, not just the south. Brittany is the westernmost region of France and most of these sites have an eastern alignment. They span a time line of 7.000 years, from Neolithic sites to sites that became Christianised in medieval times. These megaliths range from a single standing stone, to vast alignments of stone rows that stretch for miles, to dolmens and mounds, stone circles, cromlechs and passage tombs. In short, every classification of megalithic monument can be found here and then some. In fact they enjoy a pre-eminent status among the megalithic sites of Europe.
The early sites of Brittany usually contained a simple floor plan. Narrow, long corridors lead to a large round polygonal or angular chambers, which were covered with stone slabe or a tholos. As monument building progressed some monuments were given additional side chambers and many were accessed by covered alleys known as' Allée couverte.' and many of these sites had carvings which indicate they were dedicated to a mother Goddess, for example cup marks or circle type carvings. Each site from the most simple to the most complex is utterly fascinating.
Along the coast from Doëlan , as you head inland to the east, is a vast sweep of beach near to a place called Guidel Plage. It is a surfer's paradise. It has been developed in such a way that provides paths for cyclists and walkers too and sometimes I walk for ages along here. I enjoy the levelness, and the ions from the sea (to be fair I enjoy watching the surfers in their wetsuits too) and it is open and not secluded which can be important for a woman walking alone. It is called Boulevard de l'Atlantique.
The other day I ventured further than I ever had, I was just wandering aimlessly just enjoying it, heading for nowhere in particular. To my left were sand dunes and hidden enclaves of camper van Aires a mecca for surfer dude types, even in winter and a golf course. You can imagine my delight when I spot a tiny fingerpost sign which read 'Megalithiques Tuchenn Pol.' well, if you were me, you'd have to follow that sign!
The first thing I spotted was a standing stone at the left of a narrow lane and upon further study I could see that there was some sort of a carving on it, which might have been an axe, but I am no expert and that was my impression. Further in there was a sign with a legend in French and it read 'on remarque des dessins sculptés dont une hâche' - which I took to mean one of two thing; that it was a carving of an axe or that the carving was made with an axe, so for me the jury is out and my French is nowhere near good enough yet to be an absolute authority, though it is improving. I am mindful too that Hafted axes are found for example in: Mané Kerioned, Kerran, Mané Lud, La Table des Marchands, Manio and others in Brittany and I have to be careful not to be influenced by that. Here they call standing stones 'menhirs.'
This monument turned out to be a whole complex of monuments, three of which I found evidence of. And again, when you read 'complexe' on a sign in French you have to be careful to interpret it both ways; firstly as a complicated structure and secondly as a vast array of things. The other thing to be mindful in deciphering the name of a site, is that often here in Brittany, they are in Breton and not in French, to further complicate my enquiry.
You can imagine my intrigue when the sign named these respectively as Tuchenn Pol ('butte du diable'), (the devil's mound), circular in shape (diameter of 27 m), the Tuchenn er Gouc'h ('mound of the man') rectangular (34 m long and 12 m wide) and the Tuchenn er Hroëk ('mound of the good woman') also rectangular (45 m long for 25 m wide). I couldn't help wondering why the woman was defined as 'good' while the man had no such honouring. These were described as 'tumuli' which is plural for 'tumulus' which depicts an ancient burial mound; a barrow. There was also evidence of a cist type burial where were found a child's remains.
The Tuchenn Pol mound covered a structure consisting of a long, north-westerly corridor leading into a large rectangular north-east / south-west chamber. Two alcoves, at the north and east corners of this sepulchral chamber, completed the whole. Several slabs delimiting the main chamber and the entrance hall had engravings, nothing of which I could decipher.
It had been excavated 1891 and two jadeite axes, and calla beads were found which dated the site as Neolithic. Suffice to say, pretty old. It is known that this complex did suffer some degradation from a nearby quarry, during the second world war and from the construction of a nearby golf course. I still found it utterly beguiling.
I walked back wondering about these ancient dieties interred here, a child, a man a devil and a good woman and I was left with no answers, save one, that it was a 'divil' of a monument to understand, but that too was okay.